Friday, April 22, 2011

Bobby Greenlease

It was one of my most profound memories as a very young boy.  I had not forgotten about it but while transcribing some letters for my other blog, Korea: A World Away, the Greenlease kidnapping kept popping up in correspondence between Dad and my Grandparents.  Although the kidnapping was not exactly an adventure of mine, it certainly had an impact on me and the rest of the country and hit very hard in the Kansas City area.  I had forgotten or probably never knew the facts in the case.  I remember that he was the same age I was, kidnapped, murdered, and buried in a shallow grave.  It scared me then and sort of scares me now.  Bobby Greenlease would have been 64 years old this year.  The following is from FBI files with no narrative from me.


               

 
The Greenlease Kidnapping
The Crime
At approximately 10:55 a.m. on September 28, 1953, Sister Morand of the French Institute of Notre Dame De Sion, a school for small children in Kansas City, Missouri, answered the door and was confronted by a woman who said she was the aunt of Bobby Greenlease. Robert Cosgrove Greenlease, Jr., known as Bobby, was six years old and the son of Robert Cosgrove Greenlease, Sr., a wealthy automobile dealer who resided in Mission Hills, Kansas City, Missouri. The woman informed Sister Morand that Bobby's mother had just suffered a heart attack and had been taken to St. Mary's Hospital. The woman appeared visibly upset and apologized to Sister Morand for her condition. Upon getting Bobby, Sister Morand told him that an aunt had called at the school for him, but she did not tell Bobby that his mother had suffered a heart attack. Sister Morand recalled that Bobby walked directly to the woman without hesitation, and there was nothing in his action or behavior to indicate doubt on his part that this woman was his aunt. As the woman left the school, she had an arm around Bobby's shoulder and was holding his hand. Sister Morand last saw them as they entered a taxicab. At approximately 11:30 a.m. that day, Sister Marthanna of the school called the Greenlease home to inquire about Mrs. Greenlease's condition, spoke to Mrs. Greenlease and at that time learned that the story told by the woman who called for Bobby was false. Mrs. Greenlease immediately called her husband who rushed home and, after hearing the story of what happened, notified the chief of police in Kansas City, who in turn reported the matter to the FBI. Willard Pearson Creech, cab driver for the Toedman Cab Company in Kansas City, told authorities that shortly before 11:00 a.m. on September 28, 1953, a woman, whose description fit that of the woman who had called at the school, entered the cab and requested him to drive her to the school of Notre Dame De Sion. Upon arriving at the school she told Creech to wait for her because she desired to be driven to the Katz Drug Store at Westport and Main Streets in Kansas City. In approximately six minutes, the woman reentered the cab accompanied by a small boy fitting the description of Bobby Greenlease. When Creech last saw them, they had stopped behind a blue 1952 or 1953 Ford Sedan bearing Kansas license plates. A few hours after the kidnapping, the Greenleases received the first ransom letter concerning the return of their son. The first letter, mailed special delivery and postmarked 6:00 p.m.on September 28, 1953, demanded $600,000 in $20 and $10 bills be placed in a duffle bag. The kidnappers promised Bobby's safe return in 24 hours and as long as there were no tricks in delivering the money. The second ransom letter was postmarked 9:30 p.m. on September 29, 1953. Inside the envelope in which this letter was mailed was the Jerusalem medal which had been worn by Bobby Greenlease. The letter again contained demands for $600,000 and stated that Bobby was okay but homesick. Overall, the Greenleases received over a half dozen ransom notes and 15 telephone calls. The final communication between the Greenleases and the kidnappers was a telephone call received at 1:00 a.m. on October 5, 1953 at the Greenlease residence. The kidnappers stated that they had received the $600,000 ransom money and assured the Greenleases that their son was alive and that he would be returned in 24 hours.
For more information:
line
-FBI Case Records
Unknown to the family, the kidnappers, Carl Hall and Bonnie Heady, had killed the boy soon after the abduction and buried the body near Heady's house in St. Joseph, Missouri. Then the two murderers took the ransom money and traveled approximately 380 miles to St. Louis, Missouri. On October 5, 1953, Hall purchased two metal suitcases and transferred the ransom money from the duffle bag to these suitcases, leaving the duffle bag in an ash pit in south St. Louis. Carl Hall took Bonnie Heady, who was drunk, to an apartment he rented on Arsenal Street, also in St. Louis. Heady immediately went to sleep, and Hall deserted her there, leaving only $2,000 of the $600,000 ransom money in her purse. On October 6, 1953, Hall purchased two large garbage cans and a shovel, placed them in a rented car and drove to Meramec
Authorities Break the Case
A telephone call was received at the 11th District, St. Louis Police Department, about 3:30 p.m. on October 6, 1953 from John Oliver Hager, a driver for the Ace Cab Company in St. Louis. His information led to the arrest of Carl Austin Hall (who identified himself as John James Byrne) by officers of the St. Louis Police Department at the Townhouse Hotel in St. Louis during the evening of October 6, 1953. Later that night, he led the officers to an apartment on Arsenal Street in St. Louis where Hall's girlfriend, Bonnie Emily Heady, was taken into custody. Hall was interrogated by FBI agents and other law enforcement agencies several times after his arrest and emphatically insisted that practically all of the $600,000 ransom money was in his possession at the time he was arrested by the St. Louis Police Department. Hall admitted to FBI agents the planning of the kidnapping, the actual abduction of the victim, and to burying the body in the yard of Mrs. Heady's residence. He also admitted picking up the ransom money, but denied that he killed the victim. At this time he implicated Tom Marsh, stating he had turned the victim over to Marsh. Hall later admitted Marsh was a fictitious individual and the only persons involved in the kidnapping were Bonnie Heady and himself. It was not until October 11, 1953 that Hall admitted he and Bonnie Heady transported the victim from Kansas City, Missouri to a point just outside of Kansas City in Overland Park, Kansas where Hall shot the victim to death. He then transported the body approximately 45 miles back to St. Joseph, Missouri, where he buried it in Bonnie Heady's yard and planted flowers on the grave. Bonnie Heady admitted assisting Hall in the preparation of the ransom letters and notes of instructions to the Greenlease family concerning the pay-off of the ransom as well as going to the school and obtaining custody of the victim using the ruse that his mother was ill. The boy's body was found by FBI agents at 8:40 a.m., October 7, 1953, buried near the porch of the Heady residence at 1201 South 38th Street in St. Joseph, Missouri. The body had been wrapped in a plastic bag, and a large quantity of lime had been poured over this bag. The Greenlease family dentist identified the body as that of Bobby Greenlease at 1:05 p.m. on October 7, 1953. Blood stains were found on the basement floor and steps in the Heady residence, and on a nylon blouse and fiber rug. Some .38 caliber shell casings were also found in the house. These shell casings were examined by the FBI Laboratory and it was found that they had been fired from a .38 caliber snub nose Smith & Wesson revolver in Hall's possession at the time of his arrest. The FBI Laboratory also ascertained that a lead bullet recovered from a rubber floor mat in the Plymouth station wagon owned by Bonnie Heady was also fired from Hall's .38 caliber revolver.
The Judgement
On October 30, 1953, Carl Hall and Bonnie Heady appeared before Judge Albert L. Reeves in federal court in Kansas City, Missouri, at which time they entered pleas of guilty to the indictment. On November 19, 1953, after hearing the evidence, a jury in the federal court in Kansas City, Missouri, recommended the death penalty after only an hour and eight minutes of deliberations. Fifteen minutes after the verdict was announced, Judge Reeves sentenced both of them to be executed on December 18, 1953. Judge Reeves said, "I think the verdict fits the evidence. It is the most coldblooded, brutal murder I have ever tried." Carl Austin Hall and Bonnie Emily Heady were executed together in Missouri's lethal gas chamber at the State Penitentiary, Jefferson City, Missouri, on December 18, 1953. Hall was pronounced dead at 12:12 a.m., and Bonnie Heady was pronounced dead 20 seconds later. Over half of the $600,000 was never found. FBI investigation established that the two suitcases which reportedly contained the ransom money, and which were in Hall's possession at the time of his arrest, were not brought to the 11th District Precinct Station as testified by the arresting officers, Lieutenant Louis Ira Shoulders and Patrolman Elmer Dolan. Both officers were subsequently federally indicted for perjury. Lieutenant Shoulders was convicted on April 15, 1954 and sentenced to three years in prison, and patrolman Dolan was convicted on March 31, 1954 and sentenced to two years. After they were released from prison, both returned to the St. Louis area. Shoulders died on May 12, 1962. Dolan received a full pardon from President Johnson on July 21, 1965.
Famous Cases by Category
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Terrorism
- 9/11 Investigation
- Anthrax/Amerithrax
- Beltway Snipers: Part 1| Part 2
- East African Embassy bombings 1998
- Eric Rudolph: Part 1 | Part 2
- Millennium Plot/Ahmed Ressam
- Oklahoma City bombing
- Palmer Raids
- Pan Am 103 bombing
- Unabomber
- USS Cole Bombing
- Wall Street bombing 1920
- Weather Underground bombings
- World Trade Center bombing 1993
- Fawaz Younis
Counterintelligence/Espionage
- Aldrich Ames
- Atom Spy Case/Rosenbergs
- Black Tom 1916 bombing
- Duquesne Spy Ring
- Espionage in the Defense Industry
- Hollow Nickel/Rudolph Abel
- Iva Toguri d’Aquino and “Tokyo Rose”
- Maksim Martynov
- Nazi Saboteurs and George Dasch
- ND-98: Case of the Long Island Double Agent
- Pearl Harbor Spy
- Robert Hanssen
- Thwarted Sabotage in Zambia
- Vasilli Zubilin
- Velvalee Dickinson, the “Doll Woman”
- Vonsiatsky Espionage
- Year of the Spy (1985)
Cyber Crime
- Operation Innocent Images
Public Corruption
- ABSCAM
- Operation Greylord
- Tennessee Waltz
Civil Rights
- Baptist Street Church bombing
- Edward Young Clarke and the KKK
- Emmett Till
- Mississippi Burning
Organized Crime/Gangsters
- Al Capone
- Bonnie and Clyde
- Joe Pistone, Undercover Agent
- John Dillinger
- John Gotti
- Kansas City Massacre/“Pretty Boy” Floyd
- Lester Gillis (“Baby Face” Nelson)
- “Machine Gun” Kelly
- Roger “The Terrible” Touhy
- The Brady Gang
- The Fur Dressers case
White-Collar Crime
- Enron
- Hurricane Katrina Fraud
- Operation Senior Sentinel
- Operation Stolen Dreams
Violent Crime/Major Thefts/Bank Robberies
- Brinks Robbery
- Charles Ross Kidnapping
- D.B. Cooper Hijacking
- Durkin - Murder of an FBI Agent
- Greenlease Kidnapping
- Jack Gilbert Graham
- James Edward Testerman
- John Elgin Johnson
- Jonestown
- Joseph Edward Earlywine
- Judge Vance murder
- Krupp Diamond Theft
- Lindbergh Kidnapping
- Murder and Mayhem in the Osage Hills
- Nussbaum and Wilcoxson
- Patty Hearst
- Richard Floyd McCoy, Jr.
- The Black Dahlia
- Weinberger Kidnapping
- Weyerhaeuser Kidnapping
Ten Most Wanted
- Billie Austin Bryant
- Gerhard Arthur Puff
- Willie Sutton

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Col Crisp by L. A. Little

No one around Crisp Lake ever knew exactly what the name of the lake really was.  Some said Criss, some said Crisp, while others said nothing at all.  There was the Lake Association or the Hutchinson Park Association, no one could really agree even on that but you had to pay $10 a year to belong regardless of the name.  No one but the residents could swim in the lake or join the association but if one had a "pass" from an official lake resident entry was free to anyone.  Well perhaps not anyone this was prior to 1964.  Many people from outside the neighborhood use to walk up and down Lake Drive asking for passes so they could swim. 
To confuse the issue even more there was a smaller lake behind the railroad track embankment that was called Little Criss or Crisp. It was a dismal looking affair surrounded by woods and green slimmy stuff resting on the water. Even the most daring of the young didn't venture over there often and if they did they never went alone.
Well the matter of Criss and Crisp was settled finally by some enterprising researchers but that still left in question where did the Crisp come from.  Well thanks to L. A. Little and her blog site, she has informed us all.  I contacted Ms Little and she gave me permission to use an excerpt from her blog.  The following has nothing to do with The Adventures of Conley McAnally other than Crisp Lake is the back drop of Crisp Lake Chronicles.  If you get a chance punch in Ms Little's blog, there is all sorts of interesting local history just for the reading.




By:  L. A. Little of Independence

Forty years after the Emancipation Proclamation gave slaves their freedom, there were some (but not all) white people who absolutely refused to accept the idea of racial equality. One of these was Confederate Colonel John T. Crisp, a Jackson County politician whose career went as far as the Missouri Legislature.

Confederate Colonel John T. Crisp
His mission in 1903 was championing a bill keeping African Americans off of railroad cars that white people would be riding on. The Rising Son did not take kindly to Colonel Crisps ideas. They rallied protest through their paper. Among the editorials on the issue they stated:

"...The men of Crisp's calibre can give no plausible cause or demand for such a law. It is only the hateful animosity ranking in the hearts of a few men like the author of the bill that have a desire to crush the Colored man; to impose upon his manhood and to curtail the few public accommodations he has. The broad-minded white man is perfectly willing that we be left to the enjoyment of a few of the civil and personal rights left us in Missouri. The Democratic legislature cannot afford to pass the Jim Crow law."

The "Jim Crow Car" bill made it out of committee in the Democratic-led Missouri House on February 17 of that year (this was back when the Democrats were outspoken racists and the party of Lincoln was considered "the friend of the Negro"). Among the kinder things that Colonel Crisp said that day was this statement to Republicans:

"What would the Republicans do for the blacks -- amalgamate them, make them a race of mulattoes? I do not know why it is, but one drop of black blood in a hundred gallons of white blood contaminates it. It is God's way."

When put to a vote by the house, though, the Jim Crow Car bill went down by a vote of 55 for to 75 against on March 11. The Republican floor leader, O'Fallon of Holt county, reminded the legislature that the parties of African royalty coming to next year's Worlds Fair would be treated with courtesy until they got to Missouri's border. He summed up his party's sentiments by saying that white people kept the Negro in slavery for 250 years. Now that they are free, the Negroes ought not to be discouraged in their efforts to become good citizens. "I look upon this," he said, "as freak legislation. We ought not to put these people down when we could help them and should, in justice, and in expatiation of the crime of slavery, give them all the help we can." The Kansas City Times credited the bill's loss to the fact that Democrats from big cities did not want to anger their black constituents, who had been voting in large numbers in Missouri since 1869.
Colonel Crisp died the month after the Jim Crow Car bill was killed. About his death, the Rising Son said this:


"Col. John T. Crisp of Jackson County, sah, is gone. With charity for all and malice for none, we hope he is at rest. One thing we know there will be no
vaporings from him on these mundane shores, and as far as he is concerned, Jim Crow cars and Negrophobia will have a little rest. Let us look over the past and forget John T. Crisp, of Jackson County, suh!"


But the Jim Crow Car bill would come back again and again, and the struggle would be long, and the bigotry of yesteryear lives on in too many hearts today. And although there are few people around this area that can tell you a single thing about Colonel Crisp, he got the legacy of both a street and a lake named after him in Independence, while men like Lewis Woods and Harry R. Graham live on only in microfilm obscurity and the occasional footnote reference. Crisp would not be the only one to be honored for a career furthered by racial hatred. Someday I'll write about James A. Reed.

Monday, April 18, 2011

Crisp Lake Chroncles - Vol 6, 1953

Charges were dropped against Jim Francis and J.C. Mack last Tuesday by Municipal Court Judge Homer Simms.  A spokesman for Judge Simms said that as always the Judge would have no statement as to the charges in question.  However, the spokesman continued, some times charges are dropped when it is not clear what one has been charged with.

It is no secret that Jim and J.C. were taken into custody after engaging in a brawl across the street from Jim's house and just three doors down from J.C.'s.  Witnesses said that when lead off by authorities both men kept telling Deputy Sheriff Wilson that he did not understand.  Deputy Sheriff Wilson only responded for them to shut up and get in the car.

The question remains as to why these two friends and brother-in-laws were engaged in fighting.  That is the question for the neighborhood around Lake Drive and Crisp Lake but not to this reporter.  As always when there is a travesty of justice, a miscarriage of decency, or just plane interesting gossip, the CLC community can count on us being there and uncover the truth, the whole truth, and mostly resembling the truth so help us Colonel Crisp, CSA.   This is what really happened between Jim and J.C.

Jim Francis liked most of all two things.  One was his hunting dog Killer and the other was playing tricks on J.C. Mack.  J.C. Mack liked two things.  One was scrounging around the back entrances of retail stores up in Fairmount and collecting things thrown out and the other was playing tricks on Jim Francis.

Now the two men were brother-in-laws by marriage.  Their wives were sisters and the sisters did not want to live very far away from each other so only three house separated them on Lake Drive on the lake bank side of Crisp Lake.

The tricks or practical jokes were legendary around the neighborhood.  It had been three weeks since "some one" had wrapped Limburger Cheese around J.C.'s car manifold and that some one of course being Jim was waiting for the return shot.  It was taking a little bit longer than normal for J.C. to respond but respond he would, but when and where and how was getting to be a little unsettling for Jim.

One evening J.C. was scrounging around the back alley of the TG&Y up in Fairmount and he came across a female manikin.  It was in two parts, the bottom and the top.  J.C. thought that that might look funny in the lake stuck in the mud.  The top part sticking up waving its hand and next to her the bottom half with its legs stuck up in the air.  While loading the two parts into his car he notice an old hair piece that must at one time have belonged to the the manikin.  He took it for good measure.  On his way home a seed of an idea started to grow.  It took growth fertilized by the odor of Lindbergh Cheese.  It grew until it was ready for harvest.

J.C. knew Jim took his dog, Killer, down to the junk yard along the Missouri River next to Sugar Creek every Friday night.  There Killer would chase anything that would run and catch anything that didn't run fast enough.  Jim told everyone it was a way that Killer could keep his instinct's in check and not run wild in the neighborhood.  No one ever really believed Jim however because Killer didn't seem at all like the killing kind of a dog.  Dachshunds don't usually strike fear into the hearts of man or beast.  Jim's wife Eve never went with Jim but this Friday she was going because her sister three house down was going to a meeting of the  Woman's Auxiliary of the Crisp Lake Association.  Eve had not joined yet and there for not invited.  Her sister Marie urged her to join that Friday because Mrs Midget was going to bring some homemade Romanian Calzones.  But Eve declined none the less because she wanted to see what Jim and Killer did every Friday anyway.

Before going to Jim's place J.C. stopped by Mrs Midgets place to see what she was serving for the Woman's Auxiliary meeting.  He picked up a couple of Calzones and headed up the street and parked a little further down the street just in front of Jim and Eve's place.  There were no street lights so no one saw him carry the manikin inside the house.  He placed the top part of the manikin in Jim and Eve's bed with only the head protruding.  He then smeared some of the Calzone on top of the plastic head and put the wig over that.  Under the bed he slipped the bottom torso so as only to expose the legs protruding from the bed.  J.C. then moved his car back to his own driveway and headed walking, back to Jim's place with a folding chair and Calzone tucked securely under his arms.  He put the folding chair behind a bush across the street form Jim's place, sat down, unwrapped his Rumanian Calzone, ate slowly and waited.

About half way through his Calzone Jim, Eve and Killer pulled up.  Killer dashed out of the car and ran inside with Eve following close behind.  Jim was getting out of the driver side of the car and rounding the rear end when he heard Killer graul and Eve scream.  As Jim dashed up the front porch steps he first saw Killer come running out of the house with what looked like hair in his mouth and in a dead run was heading up the street.  As he was trying to fathom what was going on Eve ran out of the house with a shawl over her head screaming and running down the street in the opposite direction of Killer.  Jim was very confused.  His first instinct was to run after Eve but she was heading in the direction of her sisters so he knew that she would be safe and given proper medical attention because he had begun to think that Killer had finally shown his true nature and pulled Eve's hair off to punish her for intruding on his time with his Master.  So Jim not wanting to see Killer attack anyone else in a frenzy, went off to see if he could chase down Killer. 

Killer finally stopped running about 5 houses up the street but every time Jim would come close Killer would run one direction then another, always carrying the head of hair that was really the wig of course.   All of a sudden Killer stopped. He looked around, cocked his head and made a beeline towards the bush J.C. was hiding behind enjoying the whole show along with a number of neighbors who had congregated out side when they heard Eve screaming and Jim yelling at Killer.  Killer jumped on the back of J.C. not to harm J.C. but to get the rest of the Calzone J.C. was eating.  Apparently Killer had smelled the Calzone under the wig of the manikin and tried to eat it, not realizing that the wig was only tainted with Calzone odor.  Having a good nose like all Dachshunds he finally smelled J.C.'s Calzone and went for it. 

J.C. fell out of his chair and wrestled around with Killer, Jim saw J.C. and Killer wrestling around so Jim joined in the fray to try and separate the two.  There were elbows and legs and tails thrashing about when finally Keller was successful in snagging the Calzone away from J.C. and he and Jim could only watch in breathless irritation as Keller went off with the hair/wig and J.C.'s Calzone. 

As luck would have it Deputy Sheriff Wilson came driving down the road at the same time and wondered why all the neighbors were outside surrounding a bush.  He stopped the car and saw that Jim and J.C. were laying over one another breathless.  Jim said something about his wife being scalped and J.C. said that his Calzone had got eaten,  Eve had ventured back and yelled that there was a body in the house. 

Deputy Sheriff Wilson was a little confused so he called for back up so the situation could be sorted out.  Well it was sorted out but Deputy Sheriff Wilson thought that there must be something to charge Jim and J.C. with.   Judge Homer Simms thought that Deputy Sheriff Wilson was right but unfortunately Judge Simms told the Deputy "it ain't a crime to be stupid."

Jim and J.C. remain friends and have promised their respective wives and Judge Simms that their practical joke days are over.  We shall see, April 1st is just right around the corner.   I, your roving undercover reporter will keep you posted.    Foot note:  If any one comes across a Daschound answering to the name of Killer a $10 reward has been offered.

Friday, April 15, 2011

Appian Way - Rome

Sunday morning we got up early and went to the Pisa Terminal which was different than the one at the airport.  We were told that the train to Rome did not leave until 9:30 but we could catch one in Florence if we left immediately and it would take us there.  We did.  We got to Florence just in time to catch the train to Rome and had to run to do that.  It was a different kind of train than the one we took to Florence, it was more like the ones you see in the movies, you know like side compartments and a small hall way running down one side.  We had to split up and sit in different compartments. 

The trip took about 3 hours so along the way I walked up and down the length of the train.  I met a guy from Romania who I some how figured out was a reporter.  We didn't have a real long conversation because he couldn't understand me more than I him.  Mostly I just looked at the country side going by.  There were many farms and now and then you could see what looked like ruined castles in the distance. 

When we got to the out skirts of Rome the train stopped and we were told not to get off until the second stop if we wanted to be in the heart of Rome.  Rome Central, as they called it was much bigger and more crowed than the terminal in Florence.  We ventured outside and found a little cafe, sat and drank coffee while trying to figure out our next move.  No one thought about getting a map or anything so we just started walking in a general direction that some body in the cafe told us the Colosseum was. 

On our way we came across a lot of interesting looking landmarks and ruins but had no idea what we were looking at most of the time.  I do recall that one place I think might have been the Forum smelled like cat urine and I guess that was because I bet there were a hundred cats just lazying about.  We did see the tomb of the Italian unknown soldier and witnessed a change of guard ceremony.

We had no trouble recognizing the Colosseum of course and I was surprised they just let you walk around the place with few places being off limits.  They had some guides giving lectures to small groups but they were not in English so we just wondered around for about an hour.

We did mange to ask directions to the Vatican and ended up catching a bus that would take us there.  The bus ride was free only because when we got on it was to crowed for us to give the money to the driver who didn't seem like he cared much.

When we reached the Vatican we entered the city/country from a side entrance and a whole bunch of people were in the square looking up at this guy on a balcony.  A voice was booming over a loud speaker.  The guy was Pope John Paul II.  We had accidentally gotten there as he was giving his Sunday blessing to the faithful.

If any one regardless of his religion has any historical perspective or interest in history you had to be impressed to see one of the most powerful men in the world. After the blessing I bought a crucifix blessed by the Pope and it hangs in my house to this day.

We went on an unguided tour of St. Peters.  It was more grand and ornate than anything I had or have seen.  The Piata was near the front entrance, two weddings were going on, a group was singing and a mass was being held.  We ventured down a little stair case and saw a place where a lot of the Popes had been buried and even saw the supposed burial place of St. Peter. 

I stopped a priest on the street and asked him where the Sistine Chapel was.  He pointed it out but also told us it was closed for repairs.  I was disappointed.  That is one thing I really wanted to see.

We walked back to the train station. We crossed the Tiber River, ate in a cafe, saw another Basilica and countless other strange, interesting, and beautiful places. 

We ended up getting on the right train back to Florence some how, our trek was over.

Tuesday, April 12, 2011

Appian Way - Florence

Feb. 1992

After winning the bowling bet and paying for every ones ticket we left Saturday morning by train from Pisa near Camp Darby.  The train station was also near the airport.  The train ride was only one hour and when we got to Florence their central train station was extremely busy.  It reminded me of what the US train stations must have looked like back when commercial train travel was in its heyday.  Apparently most of the larger cities in Europe have train stations just as big and just as busy.  We immediately found our way to the Galleria dell' Accademia where resided Michelangelo's David.  The Galleria was sort of a small place considering the giant reputation of the statue.  There were other statues and painting and many tapestries of a religious nature.

We then ventured towards the center of town and visited a big church  known as the Duomo.  It was huge, impressive, artistic, and being used for several weddings and religious services.  I had never seen anything that large and that majestic.  Across the street was the Basilica and the best I could tell was a church smaller than a cathedral and larger than a chapel.

I went off by myself trying to find a Gucci store.  I stopped several people on the street and asked them directions.  It soon was apparent that unless I stopped middle aged well dressed people it was a waste of time.  Finally I stumbled onto enough people and in their broken English they guided me to the right place.  Sort of small and unimpressive for such a big reputation on the out side.  The inside was lavish and expensive as one would suspect.  The sales person was not very helpful and if one can look down ones nose he did.  It might have been because I was unshaven, dressed in jeans, and had a flannel shirt on and I asked him what was the cheapest thing they had in the store.  I ended up buying a key chain for $50.

I ran into the LTC and he and I shared a spot of tea and a pastry.  It cost about 17000 Lira, about $15.  This was before the Euro and the rate of exchange if I remember correctly was $1 for every 1,225 Lira  It was really something I thought to carry around L500,000 in your pocket.

We caught up with the rest of the group and went to the Medici palace I think it was and saw all kinds of painting.  We did not know what we were looking at and no doubt saw a bunch of famous paintings not realizing how famous they were.  There were two big pictures by Michelangelo and Leonard Di Venci which for some reason I recognized, probably because the plaque on the wall beside them.  They were impressive of course.  If I had been up on my art work or paid closer attention in Art Appreciation I might have had a more enriched experience.

My overall impression of Florence was that it was large but quaint, dirty but had an individual sparkle.  There were small cars and many scooters.  Many girls held hand and arms as they walked around town, a sign of friendship nothing else.  To a lesser extent men did the same thing.  Not sure about them though.

I saw men rowing on the river, saw people from all over the world with all types of dress.  I was surprised to see as many Africans as I did.  Their cultural dress were just so so, but they held themselves with dignity.  The Italians were not dressed that well but for those who did they rally stood out and smacked of money.  The men wore their coats over their shoulders without using the sleeves.

There were no bars like we know them.  There were many cafes however that sold bear, wine and liquor and coffee, ice cream always being available a log with Coke. 

I just walked around most of the day and observed and eventually made my way back to the train station and back to Pisa.  The next day would be Rome.